Pattern Design Grading for Apparel Production

Pattern design is a process that goes through several refinements. I am yet to see a pattern maker that makes a pattern completely correct on the first go so far in my 20 years of career. As a creative designer, you can create an illustration of what you want to see in a style. But converting that style idea to a garment goes through several processes. To help achieve converting your idea to a salable product, you need a tech pack designer and pattern master. An Important process is pattern making. And pattern design demands expertise in measurements, geometry and several fitting refinement.

Pattern Design

Most fashion school offering pattern making course start with basic flat pattern drafting. They begin with basic pattern shapes or blocks to give a shape of different style. Also, they teach darts, pleats, gathers, trucks, facing, ruffles, and other design details. Those basic teachings further help to create different types of garment patterns. Yet, it takes years to master in Pattern making as this is a continuous process of refinement. That is why finding a good tech pack designer and a pattern master is quite difficult.


Draping vs Flat Pattern Making


Another way of pattern making process is draping. Boutiques and designer garment workshops often use this process. This method needs a dress form or mannequin to prepare the base by pinning fabric to the dress form. Then it gets translated to paper pattern. Draping is the most convenient way to learn and prepare pattern. This way you need to pin the fabric to the dress form, trim excess fabric and stitch the garment. This process is best suited if you are designing a custom garment. But, when you are making pattern for mass production, the process does not work. You need flat patterns or paper patterns for this. If you want to produce a design over and over you need paper pattern. Most clothing manufacturers use flat paper patterns. Flat pattern helps optimizing fabric consumption and convenient to cut fabric in layers.



Draping and flat pattern making are two different process of pattern making. Following any one of the processes depends on the need of the business. For custom apparel specific to a person or designer garment, draping is right choice. But, when it comes to mass production, flat pattern making is the best way to follow. It is not compulsory that you follow the same process. Every garment style throws a different question and every time there is a new experience. So the pattern making process requires practice and patience.


Co-Ordination With Apparel Tech Pack Designer


Designing a collection for your clothing brand is a team effort. Only a designer or a pattern maker cannot execute the whole process by themselves. A pattern maker needs the technical drawing of the garment style to make the pattern. The tech pack contains every single detail like shape of the garment and its detailing. These details needs clear explanation to understand the style and its functionality. A detailed tech pack is a must before you consider making the pattern. Also the measurement specification sheet plays an important role. You need detailed and accurate measurement of each part of the garment to make a pattern. Fit of the garment is important and without proper measurement spec sheet it is not possible. For small adjustments and alteration proper allowances measures are also needed.


Pattern Design – A Continuous Process of Evolution


Pattern making is an age-old occupation and full of unwritten rules. This is why you get to have several refinements when making a pattern. A pattern maker must first visualize the style and its detailing. So, It is important that the pattern maker and the technical designer are on same page. You need a technical designer and a pattern maker to convert a style idea to a wearable garment. Preparing an apparel pattern that gives a perfect garment fit in one go is quite rare. So, garment fit pattern design and sampling go through several refinements.


Pattern Making and Size Grading


Once you have a pattern that gives the best fit, you must note and record the measurements as per the guideline. The next phase is to preparing size grading. Based on the base pattern, you should grade for different sizes based on the proportion. When you send the tech pack to factory till that point the style and its detailing are in the planning stage. The first step of execution starts with the pattern making. We make base pattern and factory prepares a mock sample to make sure fits are correct. If there is any gap technical designer check the gap to fix it and approve the pattern.


Apparel Tech Pack Design & Pattern Design Services


If you don’t have a pattern, we will help you to make one. We must make a pattern of your garment before we can make your first sample. Additionally, every time you adjust or alter your garment, we have to alter the pattern. We prepare custom patterns to fit with different consumers having different garment fits. To ask a quote for pattern designs please send us your query through our contact form.


We also Offer ready to use tech pack templates through our Tech Pack Template Store. If you are looking for Fashion style for commonly used garments, Wait no more for any technical designer . You can just visit our Tech Pack Template Store and Purchase directly from there. You will get a wide range of style tech packs with Pre-tested Measurement specification sheet.


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