Garment Measurement Specification – Base of Garment Fit Technique
Garment Measurement Specification is vital part in fashion design, pattern making and production. Apparel product development is a complex chronological process starting from tech pack design. And tech pack design is a systematic process that includes garment measurement specification. And this process is the backbone of getting a perfect fit sample for a style. In this post we are going to discuss the preparation of measurement spec sheet in detail and try to go deep in to it. Here we discuss garment measurement specification, its contents and preparation. As tech pack designer I will try to make it as simple as possible. Looking for ready to use fashion tech packs? Visit our tech pack template store. If in case you have more doubts please feel free to ask the questions on the comment section. I will be answering your queries and try to give the answer as clear as possible.
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What is Garment Measurement Specification?
When a pattern master prepares a garment pattern, he does not make it by seeing the style flat sketch. He also refers to the measurements given to him through garment spec sheet. The spec sheet contains measurements that pattern master follows to draft the pattern. The spec sheet is a table which contains the measurements along with a guideline. Please see below an example of a Garment Measurement Specification. As you can see in the left side there is A, B, C, and D in the First column. These are the indicators you also see on the guideline marked in Color. Also the double arrow line indicates the starting and end point how you should measure. The 2nd column refers to the name / explanation of that particular measurement point. The Rows after that represents the measurement for one size like XS, S, M or L etc.
Garment Measurement Specification is a systematic table of presenting measurements of a style. It enables Pattern master to refer measurements of key points of a style to prepare pattern. Measurement Guideline attached to the spec sheet is a visual pointer. This helps understand how to take measurement of a sample and compare with the spec sheet.
There is no certain definite numbers in a measurement. The Measurement spec sheet of different brands differs. This is because; every brand targets its customers in a different way. Some target the mass, some focus on people with well build body, some focus bulky people etc. If you compare two different brand standard size specs you will find the difference. In short every brand wants to prepare own version of measurement spec sheet. So, they prepare their custom measurement spec sheet.
Preparing Garment Measurement Specification Sheet
Most apparel brands try to get the spec sheet by copying from other famous brands. But some brands try to make their own based on their specific needs. If you are sourcing the measurement from other brands it’s the easy way. But, if you have specific need and you want to prepare spec sheet then you are talking about a bit of investment in it. Preparing the fit measurement is a trial and error process. This starts with a sample development to check the fit. Adjustments are made to the sample and check if you have achieved the desired fit. And if you have got the fit then you record the revised measurements and prepare the base size. If you fail to achieve it then check where the error is and rectify it. This process keeps repeating till you get the desired fit.
The above process keeps repeating till you get 100% fit of the garment style. Due to this it is a time consuming and expensive process. But once you have the correct measurement specification you can use the same forever.
Grading for Different Sizes
Base measurement is generally recorded keeping in mind of a specific size say (Size – M). This we can call it as sample size and the fit is perfected to this sample size. Once the fit is finalized for sample size, the measurement is “graded” for a full range of sizes. The sizes could be XS, S, M, L, XL, and XXL. Once you get the desired base measurement the next step is grading. Grading is the process to achieve measurements of different sizes for a style.
Point of Measurements:
So far we have discussed how to get the measurements through trial and error method. Now that we have a correct base measurement in hand we can prepare the detailed measurements. There are few measurements which are less significant but play a vital role in the fit and look of a garment. Armhole curve, shoulder seam, front neck drop are the examples of those. Many pattern masters and technical designers ignore those points of measurements. But they play important role in achieving a desired fit.
When we prepare detailed spec sheet, we get base measurements from body data. And by using certain calculations we derive other measurements. Here we follow simple geometric rules to derive certain data. Also there are few formulas applied to derive the certain measurements. To prepare garment measurement spec sheet you need no such heavy software. Even in hand or using Microsoft Excel you can prepare the spec sheet. The garment spec sheet should always be attached with apparel tech pack.
There can be hundreds of factors that can cause variation in garment measurement. Sewing and garment construction, small error in cutting and so on. So, technical designer should consider those variations in the spec sheet. It is important to keep some tolerance to cover the errors that may cause during the processing. To give you an example when giving body measurement chest, waist or bottom should have +/- 1/2″. While small parts of the garment should have relatively smaller tolerance. It is up to the tech pack designer to give tolerance that can cover a variation during production.
Measuring garment as per size specs is a critical aspect in the quality control. Quality garment exporters keep QCs who can check the fits. During bulk production it is impossible to have all the garments identical. So in a garment specs designers set a tolerance for each point of measurement. This allows a small margin for error which is acceptable during bulk production. When we prepare the spec sheet it is important that we keep certain acceptable margin. We call it tolerance and this is given in certain garment spec sheets. Technical designer should keep in mind the tolerance needed in when creating spec-sheet. Tolerance is often expressed as (+ / -) in the spec sheet with acceptable amount.
Importance of Garment Measurement Specification In Apparel Design and Production
Apparel brand need detailed garment measurement specification to make correct pattern and sample. Get ready with tech pack and spec sheet of your styles before speaking to clothing manufacturer. You can save a lot of money in your pattern design and sample development if your garment measurement specification are correct. Online stores put base size guide to help customers find the best fit for their body type. I have written a detailed article about garment measurement specification component to give a better understanding on what is it and how it works.
The civil war was a pivotal event in the historical development of men’s ready-made clothing. During the civil war, the military used workers to sew custom-made uniforms at home under government contract. As the war continued, manufacturers started to build factories that could quickly meet the demand of military clothing. Factories feel the need to develop standard size for mass production of uniforms. They found that certain sets of measurements of the soldiers repeat with conventional regularity. Consequently, after the war, factories used military measurements as the standard measurement for commercial use.
Ready-made clothing rarely fit due to lack of consistency in garment measurement specification. So take the help of a tech pack designer to get measurement specification for your style. Most manufacturers follow a unique random sizing system based on erroneous body data. So, you find outfits of different measurement were often labeled the same size. As a result, you end up paying some extra in the form of return charge. You must keep standard measurements constant even if you change styles.
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Start-up fashion brands find it difficult to figure out the right tech pack designer. This is difficult because, every design service provider as everyone promise the same. It is always good to do some research before choosing vendor for your tech pack development. Refer to blogs like clothing tech pack design and you may have the basic info about tech pack design. Our tech pack designer helped more than hundred of clothing brands grow over more than a decade experience. We have experience in working with brands with cultural and geographical divergence. Our tech pack design service to help you with your style ideas converted to salable garments. We worked with many creative ideas and incorporated in fashion styling. We treat up-and-coming brands and big brand with multi-stores same way.
Our priority is to respect every brand’s reputation and business ethics. We love our client and support you to see you meet your goal. If you are seeking support in design and manufacturing for your line let us know. To get our consulting about clothing line the best way is to send us your sketches or ideas. Once we have your design concept our tech pack designer will guide you throughout. If you fall short of time and looking for ready tech packs you may also check out our pre-tested garment tech packs. You can get tech packs from our tech pack template store.